After assembling individual risers, attach each small riser to its corresponding large riser with two C clamps. The white tape on the risers should form an arc.
The dome comes apart into seven unique pieces. The ones that say "RISER" with a number 1-7, sit directly on the risers. Line up the number on the dome piece with the number on the white tape. (White tape on risers tends to come loose and should be repaired whenever possible). There are four pieces that sit directly on the riser. The one all the way to the right should be supported with a sand bag as pictured to keep it upright during assembly.
Add the three dome pieces that do not touch the risers by lining up the letters on the sides: "A" matches with "A", "B" with "B", etc... Secure with a nut and bolt, hand tight is sufficient. The holes circled in black should immediately receive a nut and bolt. The holes circled in red should only be bolted once on stage as they hold the two halves of the dome together. Dome pieces are also accordingly outlined in black or red where they meet, red signifying where the dome splits.
Weigh both dome halves down with sand bags. Someone should ride with each dome half as risers are moved on and off stage.
Once on stage, attach the two large risers with a coffin key. Bring the two domes halves together and bolt through holes circled in red. The welded aluminum trigger rack can now be added as pictured. Some force is needed to line up the holes for bolts. NOT ALL HOLES ON THE TRIGGER RACK MUST RECEIVE A BOLT. Roughly every other hole is sufficient.
Once projectors are mounted to their stands, move the base around until the projected content roughly lines up with the dome facets. Use the black dots at every vertex to align projection using software.
Start with 2 furniture dollies, cover with a furniture pad, place first dome section outside face down and centered. Wrap edges and secure with gaff tape. Cover with additional furniture pad and repeat for subsequent layers as illustrated, making sure to keep them centered. Cover finished stack with 3 more furniture pads, one for each corner, to completely protect the stack. Wrap with lots of gaff tape. Secure stack to furniture dollies with ratchet straps.
When a split occurs where plastic pieces make full contact, such as where pictured, first use tape to hold the seam together. Replace the stubby cap with the needle cap on the needle applicator bottle. Apply water-thin solvent cement to the joint by squeezing the bottle or using gravity to allow solvent to flow into the joint. Cement starts to set immediately, however tape should be left on for at least five minutes. Joint will continue to harden over the next twelve hours. If applicator bottle needs to be refilled, replace cap on solvent can with the one that has the tube. CAPS WITHOUT OPENINGS SHOULD BE TIGHTLY SECURED WHILE CONTAINERS ARE STORED TO PREVENT LEAKS.
When a split occurs in a corner or a place where plastic pieces do not fully mate, apply hot glue liberally. Old hot glue should first be removed from the joint, and tape can be used where applicable to hold the joint together while the glue cools.
To touch up the painted dome surface, brush on "reflective coat" to cover blemishes. After this coat dries, paint on "finish coat" to fully cover patches. This will help blend patches with the rest of the painted surface.